Brewtiful Philadelphia: Having Beers with Ben Franklin

What to make of Philadelphia and it’s beer culture? During the last three posts, I have dabbled in Victorian era Philadelphia following in the footsteps of Charles Dickens’ visit in 1842 and then shifting my attention to his contemporary Edgar Allan Poe who was living in Philadelphia and creating great works like The Raven at the time. Along the way, we have stopped at a handful of taverns and a selection of craft breweries whose count at this point is already impressive. But we are still missing a big part of the soul of Philadelphia.

“Philadelphia once represented the literary centre of the country. It took the lead in periodic literature half a century ago, and claimed, as residents, some of the most brilliant novelists, essayists and poets of the day. But the glory of that age has departed. ”

Willard W. Glazier. “Peculiarities of American Cities.” (1887)

One of these great poets was Edgar Allan Poe. When he could not match his creative success with financial success, he sought somewhere with more opportunity. New York City. This was a microcosm of a larger phenomenon that was happening to Philadelphia right from the very beginning of the 19th century.

“In early days Philadelphia had been the first place the distinguished foreigner in the country made for. It was the most important town and, for a time, the capital. But after Washington claimed the diplomat and New York strode ahead in commerce and size and shipping, Philadelphia was too near each for the traveller to stop on his way between them, unless he was an actor, a lecturer, or somebody who could make money out of Philadelphia.”

Elizabeth Robins Pennell. “Our Philadelphia.” (1914)

Philadelphia is a city that for over 200 years has been living in the shadows. When I mention Philadelphia to a European, it is not uncommon to be followed by eyes lighting up. “I’ve heard of it!” is exclaimed. Then, while my excited brain is creating words and my breath is about to push across my vocal chords, I hear… “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia!” Choke. Words swallowed. Smile politely.

Philadelphians, and I speak generally of course, are accustomed to their obscurity and rather favor it. They relish the role of being in the know about their underappreciated city, giving polite sarcastic smirks (or maybe impolite) to their neighbors or foriegners unwary of its true character. The media often portrays Philadelphians as having a blue-collar mentality with not infrequent loud, obnoxious behavior, particularly when it comes to sports. Blue-collar maybe, but the latter is unfair and is reflective of just how unwary non-Philadelphians are. In Philadelphia, effort can be more important than results. And poor effort along with poor results is not tolerated. Philadelphia loves an underdog. Being at the top makes them uneasy. It is unfamiliar. Getting there must be gut-wrenching, fraught with frustrating mistakes, and nail-biting to the end. The effort is what matters. Being overlooked and underestimated is as Philly as a cheesesteak. The movie Rocky is a perfect encapsulation. Who won at the end? Not Rocky. Philadelphia would have loved him spectacularly even if he never got a rematch with Creed or beat Mr. T and Dolph Lundgren. One of the most beloved baseball teams in the history of the city were beer-guzzling losers, who are revered because no team played as hard as that team.

So while cities like New York and Washington DC have taken the world stage, Philadelphia has had the privilege of quietly preserving part of the country’s heritage, like a modest bespectacled librarian content to work late on Friday evening amongst her hallowed books. Philadelphia was ground zero in the story of the American Revolution. The Declaration of Independence, the U.S. Constitution. Many of the concepts we debate about today: patriotism, country, liberty, law originate from Philadelphia. Philadelphia is the amber of this revolutionary era.

Perhaps the biggest icon from the revolutionary era in Philadelphia is Benjamin Franklin. His name, likeness, and footprint are everywhere in the city. As the city’s favorite adopted son, he overshadows in most ways even the founder of Pennsylvania, William Penn, whose three-story statue stands at the top of City Hall looking down on everything else named for Ben Franklin. Franklin moved to Philadelphia from his birthplace Boston when he was 17 seeking opportunities in the printing business. As a stateman, author, printer, scientist, inventor, and ambassador to name a few of his illustrious occupations, I would do injustice to true historians by trying to summarize the man and his accomplishments. I would rather share the attempts of two biographers.

“Next to George Washington, we must write, upon the Catalogue of American Patriots, the name of Benjamin Franklin. He had so many virtues that there is no need of exaggerating them; so few imperfections that they need not be concealed. ”

John S. C. Abbott. “Benjamin Franklin / A Picture of the Struggles of Our Infant Nation One Hundred Years Ago.” (1876)

“The life of Benjamin Franklin is stranger than fiction. Its realities surpass the idealities of novelists. Imagination would scarcely venture to portray such victories over poverty, obscurity, difficulties, and hardships. The tact, application, perseverance, and industry, that he brought to his life-work, make him an example for all time.”

William Makepeace Thayer. “From Boyhood to Manhood: Life of Benjamin Franklin.” (1889)

There is very much the spirit of Philadelphia in the latter quote. As we continue our tour of the great drinking places in Philadelphia, perhaps we will have the opportunity to have a beer with the man; Franklin’s virtue allowing. Without further ado, let’s have a stroll around historic Philadelphia and later take the convenient Metro to the Fishtown neighborhood which has a number of craft breweries.

Brewtiful Philadelphia Map

This map covers all of the places covered in my four posts. It does not cover all the great pubs and breweries in Philadelphia. The wealth of the Philly beer culture is more comprehensively covered over at the Visit Philly website.

Note: The below covers the places not covered in the previous three posts. Be sure to check out the other posts.

1. Brewtiful Philadelphia Map
2. Historic Stroll
   1. City Hall and Masonic Temple
   2. Two Franklin Statues by City Hall and the Masonic Temple
   3. Declaration House
   4. Independence Hall & Liberty Bell
   5. Betsy Ross House
   6. Elfreth Alley
   7. Franklin Court & Museum
   8. Penn’s Landing
   9. Carpenters’ Hall
   10. Library Hall and Franklin Statue
   11. Ben Franklin’s Grave at Christ Church Burial Ground
3. Philadelphia Pubs and Taverns
   1. McGillin’s Olde Ale House
   2. City Tap House Logan Square
   3. Khyber Pass Pub
   4. Mac’s Tavern
4. Philadelphia Craft Breweries
   1. Iron Hill Brewing
   2. Urban Village Brewing Company
   3. Source Urban Brewing
   4. Other Half Brewing Company
   5. Mainstay Independent Brewing
5. Craft Beer Shop
   1. BeerLOVE
6. Historical Taverns (that no longer exist)
   1. City Tavern
   2. Man Full of Troubles Tavern
7. Final Words
8. Dickens Postscript

Historic Stroll

These are by no means all of the historical sites in Philadelphia, but for me these cover the essentials of my narrative.

City Hall and Masonic Temple

The City Hall has a statue of Pennsylvania founder William Penn on top. He looks small from the street but he is really the size of a 3-story house. The Masonic Temple is the church building on the left.

Two Franklin Statues by City Hall and the Masonic Temple

One shows Franklin at his printing press and the other shows Ben Franklin and George Washington, both Freemasons, as Ben points the way to where the secrets of the bloodline of Christ are hidden.

Declaration House

The house where Thomas Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence.

Independence Hall & Liberty Bell

Independence Hall (formerly called The Old State House) is where the Declaration of Independence was adopted. The Liberty Bell, which has become the main symbol of the city due to its iconic crack, once hung in the bell tower. I didn’t visit it during this trip so I am supplementing with a photo of my daughter in front of it from 2007.

Betsy Ross House

Betsy is credited with making the first official American flag.

Elfreth Alley

One of the best well-preserved colonial-style neighborhoods in the city.

Franklin Court & Museum

Where Ben Franklin once lived and worked. There is a replica printing shop with workers in traditional dress, a museum dedicated to Ben Franklin and a frame showing where his house once stood.

Penn’s Landing

A good place to get a view of the Ben Franklin bridge.

Carpenters’ Hall

Site of the first Continental Congress in 1774.

Library Hall and Franklin Statue

Library Hall is a building housing the collection of the American Philosophical Society founded by Ben Franklin. Not a must-see, but another Ben Franklin sighting.

Ben Franklin’s Grave at Christ Church Burial Ground

The inimitable Ben Franklin is buried in this modest corner of a historical cemetery.

Philadelphia Pubs and Taverns

McGillin’s Olde Ale House

This is a classic. Everything you want in an old tavern minus the grizzled locals suspiciously eyeing you through eyebrows thick as mustaches as you enter. Hands down, my favorite. Tried the McGillin’s house lager as I watched the Wimbledon Men’s Finals.

City Tap House Logan Square

An Ok pub where I spent my final hour preparing for a future hike and blog post.

Khyber Pass Pub

A unique cozy pub with an impressive set of taps. Not on my original list because I was fooled by the name. A bit dim inside at the bar, so not the kind of place I feel comfortable in on a beautiful sunny day, unless you like… dimness.

Mac’s Tavern

This is the only one in this post I didn’t get to visit. But I am including it anyway. It is a historical tavern that shouldn’t be overlooked.

Philadelphia Craft Breweries

Iron Hill Brewing

Of the five craft breweries listed in this post, this is the only one not located in the Fishtown area. Was happy to see a Philly inspired beer. I was hoping to see more of that. Philly Phavorite IPA. Became the beer in the pheatured photo.

For the next four breweries, they can easily be accessed from the Girard Station of the Market-Frankford Line (MFL). If you do them from north to south like I did, you can return to the city center from the Spring Garden station which is one stop away from Girard on the MFL line.

Urban Village Brewing Company

Located in a really cool neighborhood of trendy cafes and shops. I had a Wrong Way IPA. I enjoyed this venue and walk around the neighborhood a lot.

Source Urban Brewing

Being born in June, I decided to enjoy a What’s Your Sign, Gemini IPA.

Other Half Brewing Company

The Other Half was a really nice venue. I think easily the nicest of the ones I visited in Philly. I went heavy on this one with the More Citra Than All Citra at 10.5% alc. Damn exciting beer. Best beer I had on the trip.

Mainstay Independent Brewing

Quite a family oriented venue with an indoor playground and beers served in plastic cups. I had a Bowline IPA.

Craft Beer Shop

BeerLOVE

Picked up a couple cans of craft beer at this shop. They have several varieties from around the world.

Historical Taverns (that no longer exist)

City Tavern

This is a replica of the original tavern that was built in 1775. I had dinner here with my daughter back in 2017. It was closed down 2022 as one of COVID’s many economic victims.

Man Full of Troubles Tavern

This is the only surviving original tavern building from the revolutionary era in Philadelphia. Not open to the public.

Final Words

When you see portraits of Benjamin Franklin, he seems more rascal than righteous, more buzzed than benevolent. I was bounding with expectation to find amusing anecdotes related to beer or drinking which would conveniently and charmingly wrap up this series of posts in a handy paperbag worthy of carrying with you anywhere you wanted to sneak a sip if you live in the hypocritically restrictive United States or completely out in the open on the streets of Belgium or wherever you are and whatever your country’s stance is on the public consumption of alcohol. However, while there are pro-beer quotes attributed to him, they are myths that have become perpetuated for marketing purposes, so I ignore them. If Franklin were around today, I would find him a rather wet sock of a drinking partner. Every time I would depart with $10 for a beer, he would remind me of a fella that worked in his printing house and the financial ramifications of my habit.

“My companion at the press drank every day a pint before breakfast, a pint at breakfast with his bread and cheese, a pint between breakfast and dinner, a pint at dinner, a pint in the afternoon about six o’clock, and another when he had done his day’s work. I thought it a detestable custom… He drank on, however, and had four or five shillings to pay out of his wages every Saturday night for that muddling liquor; an expense I was free from. And thus these poor devils keep themselves always under.”

Benjamin Franklin. “Autobiography of Benjamin Franklin.”

Arguing or returning volley with some sort of wit would be futile. Franklin would intellectually run circles around me, so I would decide it best to sip my beers in silent reverance and guiltlessly part with more shillings to toast the American city dearest to my heart, my former home, in my birth state; a city which belongs on the map of the great beer cities of the world. No one outside of Philadelphia may even be aware of it. Philadelphians could care less. Underestimated yet again. Right where they want to be.

Thank you to anyone who has managed to read these posts. I hope you can feel the pride I have in my beloved city and the joy I had in writing them. I leave many connections to Philadelphia unspoken, but they are there as vividly as stars in a forest’s night sky reminding me of directions my life has taken. It was so good to be back.

Aside from all that mumbo jumbo, there is only one more thing you need to know about Philadelphia.

Dallas sucks.

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Dickens Postscript

I was going back thru my Philadelphia photos of past trips with my daughter and I came across two novelties where I inadvertantly captured some Dickensia. One is the tavern where the Philadelphia Branch of the Dickens Fellowship meets. Today it is called Cavanaugh’s Headhouse. But in the past, it was called Dark Horse.

On the same square was a Dickens-inspired pub called The Artful Dodger from Oliver Twist. Today it is replaced by an Argentinian steakhouse.