“And although strangers journey no longer from afar to the martyrs shrine, it is still a pleasant thing to ride out on a spring or summer morning and follow the Pilgrims’ Way. For the scenes through which it leads are fair, and the memories that it wakes belong to the noblest pages of England’s story.”
The Pilgrims’ Way from Winchester to Canterbury by Julia Cartwright (1911)
On Winchester’s right flank lies the western frontier of the South Downs National Park, a graceful tapestry of rolling green scenery and tiny villages. It is where two great Ways intertwine, the Pilgrims’ Way and the South Downs Way, one leading to the Shrine of Thomas Becket in Canterbury and the other to the chalky cliffs of Beachy Head.
The Pilgrims’ Way from Winchester is not the route made famous in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. That was from London. But this is the way of Henry II (or Peter O’Toole if you rather) as he made his repentful journey to Canterbury from France after he learned of Becket’s assassination. With a radiant blue sky overhead, I took a brief break from the cozy confines of Winchester for a tranquil day hike through this historic frontierland, stopping at a couple village pubs along the way, having a brush with a famous American, and washing it all down with two great pubs back in Winchester.
Hike Details
| Starting/Ending Point | Winchester (King Alfred Statue) |
| Distance | 25.8 km |
| My Moving Time | 5h 15m |
| Komoot Link | Winchester South Downs Loop |
It’s Not Just a Beer, It’s a Journey
It is amazing how short a walk it is from the heart of Winchester until you are standing amidst this graceful landscape.
The hike ascends gradually to a great view of the surroundings.
As you head in a southerly direction towards Owslebury, you cross a wide field with vast views in all directions.
As you emerge from the previous scene, you follow this hemline through the forest. This path can be quite muddy in spots.
Owslebury
This tiny village has the quaint St. Andrew’s Church and a fine inn which would be my first stop of the day. Here we also see signs for the Pilgrims’ Way.
The Ship Inn
Nice remote pub with a large outdoor garden seating area. On this fine Wednesday noon-time, I had the place entirely to myself for lunch. It was one of those surreal moments of appreciation and tranquility which really recharges my batteries. Here I had a John Boyes Bitter named after a local farmer who died in 1856. His farm is next door to the pub.
The hike turns north and west towards the village of Twyford.
Twyford
Twyford has been called the “Queen of Hampshire villages”1. Apparently, it was enough to attract Ben Franklin here in December 1771 where he started writing his autobiography in the Twyford House.
After Twyford, it is a short journey to the village of Shawford which lies on the west bank of the Itchen River. Just across the bridge as you enter the village is its aptly named pub.
The Bridge Inn
A nice inn but not the most inspired of selections on tap. However, I can always enjoy a good Abbot Ale. The name and logo give this ale an undeniable appeal for me.
The hike then follows along the east bank of the Itchen River.
St. Catherine’s Hill
This hill made from chalk was an Iron Age settlement. From here, you get a bird’s eye view over Winchester. The comfortable grass covering its peak was strewn with picnickers and lounging friends just soaking in the view.
Climbing down from the hill, we get reunited with the Pilgrims’ Way.
The hike follows the Itchen River along its west side back to Winchester.
The Wykeham Arms
Another in a long line of fantastic pubs in Winchester. Winchester really has a rich collection of pubs. The interior is full of curiosities and even uses old-fashioned school desks for seating. The name comes from William Wykeham who was Bishop of Winchester around 1400 and built Winchester College. He is buried in the cathedral.
The Bishop on the Bridge
The final pub of the hike and my stay in Winchester was this fine riverside pub with riverview seating. Unfortunately, the pub exterior was completely obliterated by scaffolding. I enjoyed an HSB bitter with a good view of the Itchen river and promenade.
Final Words
The Itchen river flows rapidly past the Bishop on the Bridge. I sat there listening to its din and watching the occasional duck struggling to navigate it. Locals walked or jogged along the promenade and I felt a slight twinge of jealousy. It was such a beautiful city to live in, between its history, its access to nature, and its pubs. The flow of the river felt like time rushing by as I looked ahead to the next stop of my trip. Only two more days before I would return back to Belgium. It was weird to imagine that if it weren’t for The Vikings and The Last Kingdom, I’d probably be oblivious to the lure of Winchester, and even still, visiting it was not something that really compelled me. Now as I look back on this trip, aside from London, Winchester is one place I think I would return to one day if I had the chance. For now though, it was off to Portsmouth where I dip my bear paw back into Dickens Country.
- Royal Winchester: Wanderings In and About the Ancient Capital of England by Rev. A.G. L’Estrange (1889) ↩︎
itsabrewtifulworld 
Quite a long hike, but so picturesque! Could make one thirsty, for sure!
LikeLiked by 1 person