“This is the easiest mountain to climb in Great Britain: it can also be the most dangerous. You can go up by train or pony from Llanberis, or you can take one of a number of well-known routes to the summit.”
In Search of Wales by H.V. Morton (1932)
Day 3 had arrived in my August 2024 trip to Wales, and after a couple of warm-up hikes to Holyhead Mountain and Moel Hebog, it was time to return to the summit of the tallest mountain in Wales, Mt. Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa in Welsh). Back in 2018, I had the privilege of ascending Snowdon via the Snowdon Ranger path and returning via the Rhyd Ddu path, two of the aforementioned well-known routes which lie on the south and west sides of Snowdon. The ascent was a rainy, wet mess with no visibility, and it was only a last minute clearing of the weather during the descent that rescued the hike from being a total washout. I have never done a peak hike more than once, but the unique character of Yr Wyddfa with all of its possible routes enticed me to return and test my fortunes with its notorious shyness.
“Snowdon is a name best avoided… The highest summit is Yr Wyddfa…”
Rambles in North Wales by Roger A. Redfern (1968)
Hike the Brewtifulworld: Mount Snowdon
Hiking the tallest mountain in Wales and learning that the Welsh weather can be a big tease.
Continue reading Hike the Brewtifulworld: Mount Snowdon
This hike will ascend using the Watkin Path which is named after Sir Edward Watkin, who built part of the trail and had it opened in 1892. After reaching the summit, the hike descends via the lesser-used Allt Maenderyn trail to form a loop hike. This hike is steeped in Arthurian legend, and it also brings one up close to the stark, remote life of those working in the region’s copper mines hundreds of years ago.
The route is generally not dangerous, but when you reach the pass known as Bwlch y Saethau marked in red, it was quite intimidating on this day. There was very little visibility and the torrential winds were making the trek unnerving. Under these conditions, the trail was sometimes difficult to find. However, the GPS signal on my mobile phone was keeping me well within the vicinity of the path when I would occasionally stray off. Even in Summer, bring a warm hat, gloves, and wear layers.
Hike Details
| Starting/Ending Point | Pont Bethania Carpark (meter accepts credit card) |
| Distance | 13.5 km |
| My Moving Time | 3h 37m |
| Ascent | 1000 m |
It’s Not Just a Beer, It’s a Journey
From the parking lot, you will follow a road which leads to the glen called Cwn-y-Llan. This route heads deep into copper mining land. The remains of huts and buildings dot the landscape.
The further back you go, the more rugged it looks. Mounds of scree remind you that this land is not untouched. It was once home to some very hard-living Welsh miners. The low-hanging clouds gave little hope of having any visibility at the Yr Wyddfa summit.
“The very winds of Snowdon still breathe the name of Arthur…”
In Search of Wales by H.V. Morton (1932)
As you ascend towards the Bwlch-y-Saethau, you are following the path built by Sir Edward Watkin. At the same time, the fog welcomes you into an Arthurian world. It is here that King Arthur was pursuing enemy Saxons. As Arthur and his men approached this pass probably under similar poor visibility, the enemy ambushed them with a flurry of arrows, killing King Arthur. The name Bwlch-y-Saethau means “Pass of Arrows”.
“We proceeded on our way almost at once, and immediately went astray. Nothing could be seen except mist…”
Holiday Rambles in North Wales by Arthur L. Bagley (circa 1927)
As expected, the summit was completely engulfed in clouds. The wind howled and made it very difficult to stand on the platform officially marking the peak.
The summit of Yr Wyddfa is always crowded with people who have either hiked up one of the many routes or rode up by a still-operating steam train. I did not stay very long as lingering around was bringing my body temperature down. It was extremely cold up there.
Initially the path follows Rhyd Ddu a couple hundred meters before branching south towards the Allt Maenderyn route.
When you come below the cloud line and look towards the south, the three peaks from the Moel Hebog hike are visible.
As you are walking across an open field, the path starts to follow an old tramway. Looking north, you see the Bwlch-y-Saethau ridge line. Below this is the Cwm Tregalan, where it is believed the city of Tregalan once stood in Arthurian times. The remains of the mining activities are most evident from this vantage point.
Caffi Gwynant
Near the parking lot is this blessed cafe which offers a warm finale for a hungry and thirsty hiker. They stow your hiking gear in a row of open lockers so that you can enjoy the cozy atmosphere. As a non-Welsh speaker, have fun entering the WIFI password which happens to be the name of the Welsh National Anthem. I savored a Purple Moose Lager from the Purple Moose Brewery in Porthmadog, Wales.
Final Words
My second hike to the summit of Yr Wyddfa was not much more fortunate than the first, although, overall, the weather was much better despite the cold and high winds. When you learn of the Arthurian connections to Snowdon, the mist and fog take on a more poetic character. Perhaps there is no figure who straddles the realm of history and medieval folklore like King Arthur.
“Arthur himself, who was probably the great general Ambrosius, appears among the Snowdon hills.”
Snowdonia by North, Campbell & Scott (1949)
I would have one more opportunity to do a hike during my week in Wales, and I would make a third attempt at the summit. In some ways, I was telling myself that this is a mystical world best seen through the veil of mist which hovers over the summit; like it exists in a timeless vacuum. However, before I would find out, I needed a rest day, which called for a pub crawl in Caernarfon.
itsabrewtifulworld 